The soil should be aerated and amended with fertilizer before planting annual or perennial beds. Annual planting beds should be planted by mid-Spring and removed by late summer. The next group of plantings should be hardy annuals blooming from late winter to mid-spring.

Perennials can be placed in colorful flower beds, formal walkways, or grouped for massing. Everything depends on what design you want the plants to achieve. Creating a plan for your annual and perennial beds will greatly enhance the overall design of your landscape and final planting.

Basic care for annuals, perennials, and biennials:

Watering: New plantings will need to be monitored for water consumption. They should at least be getting a good soak of one inch of soil depth. Once the plants are established, they may not need as much watering. Try not to water your gardens frequently, as this may encourage shallow root growth.

Mulching: Using mulch will protect your newly planted garden beds from extreme temperatures and retain much of the moisture applied during watering. Be sure to choose from pine straw, bark nuggets, finely ground bark, and shredded leaves. Choosing the right mulch for your plants will also help seal in nutrients needed for successful growth. Check your soil pH and plant needs before purchasing any new mulch.

Fertilizing: A slow release nitrogen fertilizer will benefit new growth for younger plants and should be applied annually to more mature plantings.

Grooming: Deadheading is the most important maintenance routine for annuals and perennials. By removing spent blooms, you will encourage more bloom growth. Plants should also be pruned according to growth habits and allowed to continue growing new foliage.

Red Mulch: Also called “waste wood,” can be dyed to match the color of cypress, pine, and other mulch products. Some of this mulch may actually be mixed with pressure-treated lumber pieces and should be amended with nitrogen fertilizer. This mulch is inexpensive and long-lasting.

Double Shredded Hardwood Mulch: Hardwood mulch further breaks down and adds nutrients to surrounding plants and soil. Shredded hardwood mulch suppresses weed growth, has a high tolerance for heavy rainfall, and decomposes slowly.

Pine Bark Nuggets: This mulch comes from pine bark and normally ranges in two-inch sizes or larger. The decomposition rate is slow and the mulch normally lasts about one year. Choose a nugget size that isn’t too large, otherwise during extended storms, larger pieces will wash out.

Brick Chips: (Wood Chips and Bark): These are more commonly used as mulches for garden beds and container gardening. The shredded variety may be applied to slopes or steep embankments, retaining water and preventing further soil erosion. Wood chips may attract termites or other insects.

Wheat Straw: Is a dense straw material and holds a good amount of water. Wheat straw is best utilized in edible gardens, along tree and shrub beds, but should not be used for ornamental flower beds.

Pine Straw: Best when applied during the winter. This does not break down as quickly as other mulches and supplies nutrients as well as organic material to your planting beds. Does not float or wash away as easily compared with other mulches. Pine straw does not attract termites or other pests. Pine straw should be used around plants that prefer acidic soil conditions.

Keep in mind your design options based upon the size and location of the pit. There are a few safety precautions and specifications for fire pits and bowls. You may need to install fireproof padding, paving stones, or other fire retardant materials around your design. Check with city ordinances before starting any construction project. Listed below are a few fire pit designs to consider for your landscape:

Round: These are ideal for entertaining and provide an “around the campfire” ambiance. You can incorporate this shape into a pre-existing garden, backyard, or pool deck. A round fire pit can be constructed with stone, brick or any other non-flammable surface.

Fire Hearths: This design is constructed with a simple wall feature as the backdrop and fire hearth in the foreground. You can create the hearth alongside the width of your wall or choose one focal point for semi-circular seating.

Rectangular: A pre-cast long rectangular pit can accommodate more seating and store necessary propane components. While a custom designed fire pit can serve as screening or wall feature. If your yard has a more linear and contemporary design this may be an ideal fire pit choice.

Patina/clay/metal: If you want a design that accommodates a fire container or bowl, consider placing a clay stove or steel brazier on your patio, surrounded by additional seating. There should be at least 1-2 inches of sand at the bottom of your pit or bowl. The bowl itself should be at least fifteen inches deep. These containers are ideal for residences that prefer semi-permanent outdoor fir pits.

Consult with your local landscape designer for any additional questions about specific design and installation inquiries and enjoy the newly renovated space.

Waste-free watering and fertilizer application. Cutting out patches of lawn in your landscape will minimize the time and application of water and fertilizer necessary for healthy turfgrass.

Landscape in manageable areas. You don’t have to renovate your entire landscape at once. Consider redesigning specific areas that are high traffic, major focal points or have more noticeable curb appeal. You may also want to designate certain garden areas specifically for native species.

Replace existing lawn with maintenance-free groundcover or seasonal gardens. You don’t always need a huge lawn to cover your landscape. Consider creating garden spaces or borders around drives and walkways to cut out unnecessary lawn maintenance. Also consider a native groundcover that will keep your yard looking green year round.

Group plants with specific watering zones. Right plant right place. Group plants according to light and watering requirements. Certain plants may require more sun or shade and should be placed in appropriate zones.

Install a drip irrigation system. If you must have an irrigation system you may want to research a more efficient way of irrigating plants with drip irrigation. Water is applied at consistent and effective levels ensuring all plantings within the drip system line will be watered thoroughly. For the first week of installation, monitor the accuracy of your drip system, then layer mulch on top of the drip system. The drip system should also be flushed a couple times each year before critical watering seasons begin.

Landscape with native or drought tolerant plants.

Results may not be immediately visible but given time and monitoring, you will reap the rewards of a thriving xeriscape. Remember some plants require the same amount of care and monitoring until they are well established and have grown vigorous root systems. You should see results within three growing seasons and by the third year a well established landscape. Be sure to trim back any excess shoots or dead foliage allowing new growth to appear. Pruning and dead-heading should be completed during the spring or summer and any dead foliage should be removed at the end of winter. Your yard may need watering during the winter every four to six weeks.

If all this work seems out of your range, contact Green Biz Nursery and connect with one of our landscaping or lawn maintenance professionals

What can you compost? Most materials may be composted. There are a few things you should avoid composting: cut grass where chemical herbicides have been applied, weeds (they may re-seed and continue returning to your landscape), synthetic chemicals, pet waste, inorganic materials (pressure treated lumber, plastics, metals, glass, etc.), plants with diseases, coal ash, paper with color ink (newspapers, magazines, etc.), as well as anything consisting of dairy, meat, bones, fish and fats.

Getting started. One rule to remember is: stick to the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N) of 25-30:1. Materials with high carbon (dry material, a.k.a. brown waste) concentration include: ashes (25:1), cardboard (350:1), fruit waste (35:1), pine needles (80:1), sawdust (325:1), wood chips (400:1), etc. High nitrogen (wet material, a.k.a. green waste) concentration include: alfalfa (12:1), clover (23:1), coffee grounds (20:1), food waste (20:1), garden waste (30:1), grass clippings (20:1) (herbicide free), hay (25:1), manures (15:1), seaweed (19:1), etc. If your compost is too carbon-rich you may add grass clippings or manure to lower the ratio. Adding paper or dry leaves will raise C:N levels if it is too low. Make sure the materials added are shredded or diced to a manageable size.

Pile configuration. Pick a sunny spot in your landscape for the compost pile. You should choose an area with plenty of room to pile additional scraps and adequate space for turning compost barrels or piles. Make sure the area has some screening or consider purchasing a small indoor compost bin for your basement or garage (i.e. Planet Natural Indoor Composter). Your compost bin dimensions should also be at least 3 x 3 x 3.

Maintenance and preservation. Most of your time will be spent turning the compost pile. If you want a lower maintenance pile, consider adding worms to your compost. Vermicompost is “the process by which earthworms digest organic matter.” Starting your own vermicompost consists of a bin, bedding, earthworms, and worm food. Most earthworm bins are smaller scale compared to compost piles, but you can add the same type of kitchen waste to your collection. Mixing your compost weekly will maintain even decomposition. Compost also needs a balanced mixture of moisture. Testing the compost consistency is the best way to determine whether any additional material needs to be added. Take a handful of compost and squeeze it; there shouldn’t be any water dripping out of your hands or crumbling of compost material. The best consistency to look for is the compost taking the form of your fist. Good compost should also smell earthy and look like soil.

Compost cycle: from table to outdoors and back again. Once your compost pile is started you can add your nutrient rich mixture to new plantings, mulching areas, and upkeep for more compost.

Regulations regarding composting. Contact your local city government regarding any regulations for compost piles. Most restrictions will consist of compost height, obstruction of drainage areas, and pest control. You may also check any homeowner association guidelines.

Regular soil tests will keep your landscape healthy by providing necessary levels of fertilizer and nutrients throughout yearly growing seasons. In most areas your local cooperative extension office will provide free laboratory tests. You may have to collect and deliver the samples. Each sample will be tested accurately and you can determine what amendments are applicable for your landscape.

Collecting soil samples requires clean and uncontaminated storage containers, stainless steel or chrome plated trowels, and samples should be at least four to six inches deep (for lawns, vegetables, perennial and annual gardens). For more accurate sampling, use a coring tool for soil collection. You should collect sample boxes from your local cooperative extension office and place each soil sample for a particular area in one sample box. There are different forms for specific lab tests such as: Soil Sample Information Sheet (form AD1) and Diagnostic Soil Sample Information Sheet (form AD2). Samples boxes should be labeled according to area (SYARD, NYARD, BFLYGD). Specify which lab reports you want based upon the form you send in with your soil sample.

Most home and garden soil sample test kits provide the soil pH, but will not accurately rate how much lime or fertilizer is necessary for a healthy lawn or flowering gardens. Sandy soils should be tested every two to three years, while clay soils may be tested every three to four years. Obtaining accurate reports of nutrient levels in your soil will help your lawn and gardens be more productive throughout the growing seasons and provide a flourishing landscape for years to come.

Our professional trained landscaping and lawn maintenance staff at Green Biz Nursery can help you with any soil test or plant replacement questions you may have, Contact us now!

The best choice for plant material include natives within your region, non-poisonous plant material, shrubs and dwarf variety trees, as well as container plantings. You should not plant any large trees that would disrupt the pool hardscape surface. If you prefer adding shaded areas around the pool throughout the year, consider evergreen shrubs that keep their leaves and maintain a reasonable height.

Water features add a naturalistic feature to any pool. You can install small structured fountains or consider building a cascading rock waterfall. These features will create a remarkable focal point around your pool or provide soothing white noise in your landscape.

Privacy is another concern for your landscape design. You may want to install a privacy fence or consider installing shrubs with dense foliage that reach a mature height of four to six feet. Other options include stone, brick, or concrete paver walls.

Fencing is an important aspect to any poolscape especially with children around. There are a variety of fencing options that meet required height and width between bars for child safety. Be sure to ask about safety features on pool gates and pool accessibility after installation.

You may also consider installing a deck patio or covered area such as a pergola or gazebo. This would be a comfortable alternative during warm summer months and another “outdoor room.” Covered spaces create more shade for relaxing outdoors and safety from other extreme weather conditions such as high winds or warm temperatures. Landscaping can solve many issues surrounding your pool fun.

Centipede Decline

By: Charlie Allen

Centipede decline is a term commonly used to describe several diseases that can affect your centipede lawn. Caring for you lawn properly can improve the chances that your lawn will remain unaffected.

Several of the diseases that can affect centipede are:

• Dollar spot – Usually occurs in the summer with brown spots 2-4 inches in size

• Large patch – Occurs in wet weather or over watering during spring, fall and summer. Large areas of yellowing then browning occur with this disease.

• Fairy rings – Symptoms include large cirucular dead spots and/or green spots 3-20 feet in diameter. Symptoms can continue for several years. Mushrooms have often been seen on the outsides of the affected areas.

• Nematodes – Can cause very serious damage to centipede in sandy areas. Allowing the centipede to become dry can often increase the speed of the decline.

• Ground pearls – Are small scales that attack root systems of centipede. Decline is similar to fairy rings. There is no known control for this disease. Planting Bermuda or Bahia is generally the only option, besides removing the affected soil.

There are several other factors that can affect the growth and decline of centipede. Proper fertilization and watering go a long way when attempting to keep a centipede lawn healthy and thriving.

Several cultural practices can also affect centipede are:

• Improper fertilization – Over fertilizing can cause damage to centipede in several ways. It is import to follow the recommendations or hire a professional to handle your fertilization needs.
• Mowing – Allowing your centipede to grow to the proper height is important. Scalping centipede leaves it more susceptible to disease. Also, not allowing the thatch level to become too high is important. Having excessive thatch will allow some of the disease described above to flourish. 1-1.5″ is the optimum height for centipede after mowing.
• Irrigating – Centipede is not very drought tolerant. It is important that it receives regular precipitation for optimum health. Evening watering is not recommended as is creates the optimum environment for disease growth.
• Herbicides – Certain types of herbicides should not be applied to Centipede, or should only be applied at specific times. It is import to follow the label when applying any chemical to your lawn. It is preferable that you consult with a professional to assist you in chemical applications.

Centipede can be a wonderful lawn for your yard if properly cared for. Often times over diligent care can also cause problems. Remember, if some is good, more is often NOT better.

If you are having problems with your centipede lawn, I would suggest contacting a lawn spray company. Master Green Horticultural Services deals specifically with southern types of warm season grasses such as Centipede. Contact them with any questions. (910) 485-8873

Planning your watering schedule whether for new beds or established gardens can be a challenge during changing climate conditions, including consistent drought or extreme temperatures. Your county or city may also place watering restrictions throughout the region. Following a few basic guidelines in your planting and watering routine can provide a smooth transition for existing plants and save on water consumption.

Right Plant, Right Place

Choosing native plant material is an eco-friendly way to minimize water consumption as well as long-term maintenance. Plants should be grouped according to sun/shade requirements. Be aware of areas around your property where drainage alters normal watering levels.

Adding Compost

Compost is nutrient-rich and will break down harmful organisms within the soil. The compost will retain moisture levels around your plants and within existing soil. Compost can be created with the leaf and stem waste from your landscape and then can be used to retain the water. This is a great way to make your landscape truly renewable.

Drip Irrigation/Hand Watering/Harvesting rain in barrels

Drip irrigation systems are an effective way to provide accurate watering at a slow rate for new plant material, raised beds, and edible gardens. Drip irrigation systems can apply 1-4 gallons of water per hour, providing uniform soil saturation. Water use is also minimized when watering your garden/lawn by hand. You should have a spray nozzle that evenly distributes water throughout your garden/lawn. Watering levels should be adjusted according to the plant or grass type. Another way to minimize on water consumption is to collect new rainfall in barrels. You can apply the stored water to smaller gardens or install a more advanced system for lawn care.

Mulch

Use of mulch helps slow water evaporation and is proven to minimize water consumption. Too much mulch should be avoided. Three inches should be the maximum depth for spreading mulch around plants. Water-wise mulches include: pine straw, pine bark, chipped or shredded hardwood. Organic mulches used in edible gardens include: peat moss, seaweed, sawdust, dry composted manure, bark chips, and straw.

Garden supplies such as rain barrels, drip irrigation devices/systems, hand-controlled spray nozzles, and other products may be found at your local garden and nursery center.

Charlie Allen
BS Horticultural Science, NC State University
MBA, Business Administration, Methodist University
Operations Manager
Green Biz Nursery and Landscaping, Inc
http://www.greenbiznursery.com

How to Prune Perennial Beds

Maintaining your landscape beds year-round doesn’t have to be a chore. You can reap the benefits of arranged pruning with a few simple steps. Take note of the specific types of plants in your garden. Do they have singular or lateral stalks with blossoms? Identify which blooms need to be pruned or simply removed. Prune all necessary perennials. In less than a week, you will see rows of new color and refreshed plants.

Why should you deadhead your perennials?

Dead-heading is defined as, “the process of removing spent blossoms.” This process can prolong the bloom period of your plants and prevent further seeding of plants you may not desire growing in your garden next season. Perennials will have a cleaner appearance when you prune the dying flowers from each spent stalk. A few other benefits include the appearance and growth of new buds and blooms.

Plants consist of a stem, nodes, internodes, flower stalks, and leaves. New flower stalks form at leaf nodes (where leaf meets the stem). Each plant should be investigated as to whether it has a lateral or singular stalk. Lateral flower heads can be pruned back to the node. Terminal flower heads may be cut back to the terminal leaves or the next lateral bud. When in doubt you can always prune the stem back to the closest lateral leaf.

A few plants with singular stalks may be pruned to the ground including: Hostas, Coral bells, and Lady’s mantle. Whereas lateral stalks produce new buds near the leaf nodes, they may be pruned back to the original node, just before the leaf stem. Some flowers requiring this type of pruning include: Salvia, Spiderwort, Golden phlox, and Roses. If you want a low maintenance gardening routine, you may consider planting: Astilbe, Sedum ‘autumn joy,’ and Russian sage. Contact your local nursery for more plants that require little or no pruning during spring and summer months. Then sit back and enjoy your revitalized garden.

Charlie Allen

BS Horticultural Science, NC State University
MBA, Business Administration, Methodist University

Operations Manager
Green Biz Nursery and Landscaping, Inc
http://www.greenbiznursery.com